Jan 9, 2010

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Surf Chicama – The Longest Wave in the World

Surf Chicama – The Longest Wave in the World

If someone told me to go and Surf Chicama I would have to ask where the hell is that? I’d never heard of it and I am imagining that neither have you up until now. After about 2 minutes research I was awestruck at the barreling series of left hand waves that I am accustomed to seeing in Indonesia or Hawaii. In case your wondering, Chicama is located in the South American country of Peru and is 560km north of its capital Lima.

Chicama Surf

Reasons to Surf Chicama?

Why am I telling you this??

We are so used to seeing endless pictures and reports from the ASP world tour on places such as North Shore Hawaii, Biarritz France, Indonesia and Australia that we forget that there are countless other less well known places that have almost equally as good surf but are most likely off the beaten track and not as easily accessible.

The Advantages of Surfing Chicama:

  • Empty Waves
  • Excellent Weather
  • Extremely Long Rides ( 2- 4minutes)

The Disadvantages of Surfing Chicama:

  • Only Left Hand Waves
  • Extremely Long Walk to Start point (up to 20 minutes)

Surfing Chicama offers a wide selection and range of waves for a wide range of skills. You can get your first surf lesson here or find a barreling haven over reef. Chicama has it all.

How Good is Surfing Chicama Really??

Google Earth Maps shows that the distance between the Cape to the Pier is approximately 2.61 km. There are 4-5 sections during this ride. If the surf is large enough, between 6 -8 ft, there will be enough volume of water to transition between the sections giving the ultimate 2-4 minute left hand ride. The downside is the 20 minute walk back to the cape but its a small price to pay for the longest ride of your life.

Chicama can cater for all sized and shaped surf boards ranging from short to long. In smaller conditions the thicker and more buoyant the board the greater the chance of transitioning between the sections.

Chicama Surf Break

Plenty of Chicama Waves for Everyone

The million dollar question your waiting for is, how many thousand people are all going to be running over each other to get onto the same wave?? We if I said 20 to 30 … people … along the whole stretch of coastline I would not be joking.

Chicama could cater for 100 plus but on your average day you will have 5 people surfing, on 5 separate waves. 5 people lining up and about 12-15 people walking back to the line up. No need to drop in or cut off anybody here and it is not taken lightly either.

“My motto is Courtesy is king whenever I surf in other countries or locations”.

Chicama Surf Break

Local Chicama Surfing Contacts

If your starting out or need a Surf Lesson then here’s a place I’ve found helpful and caters for all levels of experience:

However, if you do want to go all out and splurge on a give star surfing extravaganza then this is the place for you:

If you have been to Chicama lately I’d love to hear your experiences below. Surf Chicama and tell us all about it. I do not edit or change comments so if you have something to say then lets hear it.

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Jan 4, 2010

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Free Surf Lesson’s in Tenerife

Free Surf Lesson’s in Tenerife

Free Surf Lesson in Tenerife? Too good to be true?

Well if I hadn’t had seen it with my own eyes I wouldn’t have believed it. I would have thought here’s another internet marketing scam or typo. But seriously its true. Free Surf Lesson, ask inside.

Like everything in life you get nothing for nothing and this still holds true for your free surf lesson. So yes in some regards there is a catch but only a small one. The place where you get your free lesson you’ll have to hire a board from them … is that all you say .. yep, so realistically if you came on holiday to Tenerife without your surfboard anyway you would have to hire from someone anyway.

A Small Price to Pay for a Free Surf Lesson

And don’t be scared about the price. As of November 2009 a board, booties and rash shirt package on average was 15 Euro per day or less if you hire for more days. I also hired a short wetsuit, not that I really needed it after I realized how warm the water was but you learn these things, for an extra 5 Euro per day. My total was 18 Euro per day for 3 day hire.

Rash Shirt & Booties a Must at Tenerife

And before you ask why you need booties I suggest you read my previous article on surf conditions around Tenerife. 95% of the surf breaks are on reef so trust me when I say you need then to walk out on and to save your feet when you come off. I’ve cut myself quite badly on reef in both Australia and Hawaii and then vowed never to surf bare foot again on it.

The rash shirt is an obvious choice for avoiding a seriously red and itchy chest, plus the added bonus that the rash shirt gives you that extra bit of grip so your upper body doesn’t slide off the board when you are paddling.

Tenerife Surf Break Map

Where to go for your Free Surf Lesson

Before I can tell you where to go to get your free surf lesson lets show you Tenerife on a map so you can see for yourself. On the Tenerife island map above you will see the names of some of the local surf breaks. The best and easiest place to surf in terms of both accessibility of beach and equipment is at Playa de Los Americas. This place is not specifically on the attached map but is located in the South West Corner of the island (bottom left for you non-geographical types) where La Izquirda is shown.

Playa del Los Americas has 4 surf breaks. La  Izquirda (left hand break as name suggests in Spanish), Las Americas (reef break), Derecha del Cartel (right hand break) and El Conquistador (reef break). All these breaks are located in the same area of Playa de Los Americas which is easily accessible via the motorway. As a reference, approximately 15 minutes from the airport heading west.

Playa de Los Americas

Once you enter the town weave your way towards the beach and car parks adjoining. The street you are after is right in front of the beach. There is a burger king on the corner and opposite it is an Aberdeen Steak house, which i might add does pretty cheap 2/3 course meals. (no I don’t get any money to advertise from them. I will go as far to say that you can have a beer with your meal at the burger king which is a nice change).

If you stand facing the water with these two buildings behind you you will be in the right place. There are 3 places to get your free surf lesson from.

  1. Behind you to the right. A store with many surfboards perched up in front of it. Extremely friendly staff and this is where I got my gear from. Very friendly and helpful staff with an excellent grasp of English.
  2. Behind you to the left and slightly further from the beach, slightly more expensive and less surfboard range then first choice.
  3. The third place,  on the beach slightly to the right. Its a beach shack that double up as a bar. I had many a nice Mohito there while watching the sun set and the locals at La Izquirda weave there magic on the waves.

Want more places to Surf in Tenerife?

Now if you want more than just the four break at Playa Del Los Americas and you have a car at your disposal then your in for a treat. The second map below shows the surf break locations all over the island, there are many more but this is a good start.

However a word of caution, they’re not as easy to find as it seems on the map and secondly, the roads aren’t well sign posted so unless you ask a local you may not be able to get to half of the breaks, trust me I’ve tried.

Tenerife Surf Breaks

I wish you luck, safety and good surfing with your free Surf Lesson in Tenerife. Share your experiences and frustrations below so we can all learn together.

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Nov 21, 2009

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Surf Lesson in Tenerife – A Great Surf Vacat...

Surf Lesson in Tenerife – A Great Surf Vacation

Surf Lesson Tenerife

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A Surf Lesson on reef doesn’t sound appealing except when the water is of tropical proportions and there is almost no offshore winds. Couple this with gentle rolling breaks and you have a fantastic combination in which to learn on.

Having said this its not for the feint hearted.

Surf Lesson on Reef not for the Feint Hearted

You have to be committed. The entry and exit of the water is the most dangerous with slippery uneven rocks to walk over, not to mention balance and carry your longboard surfboard through all this.

I traveled all the way around the island of Tenerife for good surf conditions for both a surf lesson and larger waves. The early November conditions brought with them a NE/NW swell which meant that the best conditions were in the SW of the island, namely Playa de Las Americas.

Surf Lesson at Playa de Las Americas

The Surf Lessons are taken usually in the wash at Las Americas. You can get surf lessons from half a dozen places in the town and even from the beach kiosk, they also do a pretty mean Mohito but i’ll save that story for another day.

Wherever you do decide to go you can expect to have wetsuit, surf shoes, a rash shirt and longboard surfboard included in the price. To be honest, in November, the water is so warm that you really don’t need anything else other than your shoes so you don’t slice up your feet.

Hiring Surf Equipment

Many places offer free surf lessons as long as you hire the equipment from them. Longboard surf hire (with everything above included) is approximately 15 – 20 Euro per day and this is reduced the longer you hire.

I hired for 3 days and it cost me 12 Euro per day.

For the best surf lesson experience i thoroughly recommend you go and speak to one of the surf shops and ask them how the swell is and what the conditions are like for a surf lesson. If the weather is not good they will tell you and usually give you a good estimate of how many days until the conditions improve.

You cant beat local knowledge so don’t be afraid to ask for advice.

El Medano not for Longboard Surfing

Of note, not every person on the island can distinguish good surf lesson conditions and good windsurfing conditions. The reason i mention this is that some will say to head to El Medano for great surf conditions but the only thing you’ll find there 99% of the time is 20-30kt offshore winds and dozens of kite and wind surfers. I’ll save you the drive and time right now.

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Oct 23, 2009

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Surf Spots: Jeffreys bay for your first surf lesso...

Surf Spots: Jeffreys bay for your first surf lesson?

Surf vacation at Jeffreys Bay

Surf Vacation at Jeffreys Bay

Your imaging your first surf lesson is pristine water with small waves and wash that lap at your knees. You gently mount your board and with a quick paddle are up and away on your first wave. You’ve practiced your stand up technique a hundred times on the beach so this will be no problem. The muscle memory kicks in and Whala you’ve done it… Your catching your first wave.

So why am I telling you this AND including Jeffreys bay in the same breath?

The world knows Jeffreys bay, or J Bay because of its series of barrelling right handers from the point of Supertubes. J Bay is on the ASP tour, the J Bay Billabong PRO. The likes of Kelly Slater, Andy Irons and this years 2009 winner Joel Parkinson are regulars.

So why am I still talking about surf lessons? Have I gone completely mad or am I the type of guys that enjoys watching people get beaten within an inch of their life on the rocks learning to surf.

The last time I checked I wasn’t crazy, just don’t ask my wife.

Jefferys Bay Secrets

Unknown to most surfing enthusiast who go to watch the Billabong Pro is J Bay’s sand bottomed sheltered beaches that are ideal to learn to surf on. I’m not saying that you have to specifically head to South Africa just for a surf lesson but if your heading over to watch the Billabong Pro then why not check out a lesson or two while your down there. Many of the local surf schools have packages varying from a single lesson to week long courses.

Surf Lesson Accommodation

Surf Lesson Accommodation

Your closest majot airport is Port Elizabeth. From there your within a short drive to most lodges and surfing beaches. The majority of courses can include accommodation, meals, activities and all equipment hire.

J Bay as I have already mentioned has more than one surf break or beach to surf at. In fact that bay itself has eight.

J Bay swell size and water temp

Jeffreys Bay Water Temp & Swell Size

Jeffreys Bay Surf breaks

1. Supertubes – Only suitable for very experienced surfers. Waves are very fast, powerful and can be in excess of 10-12 feet when the swell is up. In the tube is the name of the game here.

2. Tubes – this is a short, perfect and hollow wave. You’ll have to master this before you attempt Supertubes

3. Magna Tubes – A well kept secret. Almost devoid of surfers so you’ll have the waves to yourself. A powerful and well shaped wave, as good as anywhere else.

4. Kitchen Window – A peak that breaks both left and right. The perfect place to learn how to ride waves and ideal for your first surf lesson. This is near Main Beach Island accommodation.

5. Boneyards – You cant miss it. This is right next to Supertubes but with only one or two surfers out there. This is a locals only break and they take it very seriously. You have been warned.

6. Salad Bowl – Suitable for experienced surfers only as the water is shallow and the waves are short and hollow.

7. Point – the waves here tend to be smaller then Boneyard & Supertubes but are AWESOME. Plenty of sections for cutbacks and anything else you could possibly want to do on a wave. The main difference here is that you’ll have a much longer ride.

8. Albatross – in the same class as the Point but very few surfers.

Here are a few more articles that you may enjoy:

  • Augie Globalog » Going Broke…30 cents at a time – Taking full advantage of our increasingly hotter temperatures we have been fully packing our weekends with trips to Sydney’s local beaches, the petting zoo, aquarium and the Blue Mountains. simon3 One of my favorite beaches here in …
  • Augie Globalog » Surf’s Up Dude! – G’Day Mates! Our newest adventure here in the Land Down Under was Mojo Surf Camp. The surf camp was a six hour bus ride to Crescent Head Beach. It was a unique experience because the two day camp allowed us 15 hours of surfing on a …

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Oct 22, 2009

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Surf Spots: Cornwall, the mecca of British surfing...

Surf Spots: Cornwall, the mecca of British surfing?

Surf Vacation at Cornwall

Surf Vacation at Cornwall

This morning I came accross and article that was very apt for me right about now in regards to a surf spot that I never really heard of Cornwall? I am leaving Australia on an extended, well there is no deadline to return, holiday/adventure through UK and Europe. I am extremely fortunate that I currently live extremely close to the beach so the choice of driving or walking to my favourite surf spot often comes to mind when I decide to hit the waves… and the winning choice usually depends on how lazy I feel.

The one thing that I am going to miss the most is the ability to have full access to my surfing within, at most, a 15minute drive to all my favourite surf spots. My starting location will be London, UK. I have already been warned that the closest to surfing I will get there is if the street ices over and I fall on my ass. Nonetheless I want to start my UK/European adventure in the big smoke.

I have been researching surf spots in the UK initially and came accross an article from Extreme Horizons Blog about the annual surfing pilgrimage to Cornwall.

The Cornwall Surfing Crush

Cornwall isn’t your Jeffreys Bay but is apparently one of the better surf locations in the UK which picks up considerable swell on both coasts. The beach at Cornwall likened to an overcrowded Tokyo subway at rush hour.. But yet the Brits still make their way down in the masses. There can be up to twenty surf school each with twenty plus students taking their first surf lesson vying for a piece of the action, and I haven’t even started to talk about the sub arctic water temperatures. You have to be half seal or have a very very good wetsuit to even get your toes in.

There are also the myriad of  beginner surfers whose first experience is likely to be that of being run over by a surfer after they unknowingly drop in on them. The prevailing north coast winds are westerly which means alot of offshore. You do get the odd day when the conditions are perfect with  onshore winds and great swell. This culminates in a few reef breaks, the odd point break plus some barrelling sandbars.

Surf Pilgrimage to Cornwall

I know I havent painted a fantastic picture of the place but its more than just a surf location. Its a pilgrimage. When you get back its not so much about the location but about the journey. Its the ability to recap the crowds, the traffic jams, the 12 year old on a softboard that you ran over while catching your first barrel. Its these memories that will last you the whole winter of dinner time discussions.

There still are uncrowded locations to surf at although you will have to search and get off the beaten track to find. There is much to do in the form of nightlife if your under 25 at Newquay and the water can be a beautiful green crystal colour.

Noone questions religious travels abroad to walk along some sandy tracks and hang out with thousands of other people in the overwroded blistering heat and neither should anyone judge yours if your that way inclined.

I’ll see you there.

Here is an article that you might enjoy:

  • Surf and Fun in El Salvador – I’ve been back from my trip to El Salvador for a week and I am only starting to feel better. I had a great time there but I have felt awful for the last few days. My friends and I spent 7 days at Las Flores Surf Club, a 4 star surf resort located in El Cuco, a tiny village on the East side (note they call it East but if you look at a map, it’s actually South ).

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Oct 22, 2009

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Surf Boards, what do I really need?

Surf Boards, what do I really need?

Surf boards and surfboard design have changed so much in the last five years that regardsless if you Fish SurfBoardare a season veteran or a newbie to the surfing world, and still haven’t had your first surf lesson, choosing a board is not simple.  There are many types of surfboards available. Anyone can buy a surfboard and obtain reasonable success in riding it if they put enough time and effort into it. The secret to fast tracking yourself to surfing success and lets face it, having as much fun in the water as you can get, is to choose the surfboard thats right for you in between all the types available. Easier said than done if you dont know where to start.

Today we are going to dispel some of the myths of surf boards. Correct choice comes down to correct use. What does that mean you say. What we’re going to do is tell you which board is the best for you for your expereince level and style of surfing. Lets face it, we’re not all Kelly Slaters and are on the ASP tour.

Considerations for surf boards

The most important factors to consider when choosing a board is your height,weight, level of fitness and style of surfing will determine which board is best suited for you. If your just learning to surf or just had your first lesson then a large board is better. On the other hand you’ve been surfing for a while and want a board that can turn and cut-back like a pro then something 10ft long and 3inches wide will not be the one you want to spend your money on.

If you follow the basic ideas in this article I believe that within two minutes you can decide which board type is the one for you.

Types of surf boards

Longboard surf surfboardThere are as many surf boards out there as types of waves and locations to ride them. Dont consider that just because you havent seen a type of board in your location it doesnt exist somewhere else. There are a myriad of surf board designs out there with custom surfboards popping up every second day.

We’re only really going to be touching the surface in the this article. You could read a whole book of board types, designs and uses let alone cram it all in one article. The basic rules still apply for surf board choice; height, weight, level of skill and intended use. These are really the big four.

Surf boards can be classified into 4 basic categories. Beginner boards, longboard surf surfboards, mini mal surfboards and shortboards. For ease of understanding we are going to divide the 4 board classes into longboards and shortboards.

Beginner surf boards and longboards

Longboards are instantly recognised by their sheer size. These boards are typically seen and originated from Hawaii. You’ve seen the movies where they hang ten and walk along the board. In this category are also beginner surf boards and arguably mini mal surfboards, albeit at the small end of the scale.  These are the boards that are recommended for learning to surf, if your body weight is typically greater than 200lb or the waves are smaller.

Longboard typically range from 8ft to 10 plus feet and range anywhere from 2 to 4 inches thich. The volume of board gives you the buoyancy and stability that you need for when you are learning, heavier bodyweight or surfing smaller waves with less energy/speed to keep you floating. for those of you who dont think wave speed is important in not sinking thenjust try and stand up on your board in a pool or no waves. You literally sink. The speed/kinetic energy of the wave gives you the increased buoyancy you need to stand up on the board.

If you consider yourself in this category of skill/weight/wave size I recommend you find a board within this range. Personally I use a 9ft MaL that is 3 inches thick. What i lose out on having a longer board I gain by the increased thickness. Width is also a consideration but is second to the importance of length and thickness.
By choosing a board in this category you will be able to learn faster, not be depressed that you can’t surf because your heavier and are sinking the board; and sail past your friends on smaller boards when the swell/waves are down.

Performance and shortboards

In this category we find boards designed to turn, cut, get air and tackle some of the larger waves on offer. If you have grasped surfing on a larger board and want to turn faster, tackle larger waves and perform more tricks then this is for you.

shortboardShortboards are distinct in their shape and easily identifable by their pointed tips, thin bodies and sleek designs. These range from 5 – 7ft depending on the users weight and paddling ability. The stronger you can paddle the smaller the board you will be successful on.

If your a big wave surfer then this is the board for you with narrow noses and tail. The big wave boards are much larger and more powerful. Board size ranges from 7-9ft in length. These boards need to have the stability and buyoancy to be picked up by a large wave (15-20 plus feet) and accelerate down the face witout losing balance, ability to turn and sinking the rider. They’re like a performance board on steroids.

Fish surfboards are identified by their distinct tail. The V tail gives better performance and handling, tighter and faster turning ability while also having the ability of the board to be thicker catering for heavier bodies and those with less paddling power. These are the boards that paddle like a longboard but turn like a shortboard.

Choose a board in this category if you are an accomplished surfer who has no trouble getting up and on waves and wants more than just a straight ride. These are the boards where you want tighter turns, crisper cut backs or the speed and acceleration to pull away from large dumping barrels.

Basic surf board selection comes down to your ability, weight and intended use. Once you have a clear idea where you fit into this equation you have just saved yourself tens of hours of frustration and potentially thousands of dollars that could have been better spent on the right board.

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Oct 22, 2009

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Longboard Surfing and its evolution

Longboard Surfing and its evolution

Longboard surfing is probably the easiest and most fun way to get into surfing. Longboard surf is a slowed down more graceful version of surfing with soul. You can feel the power of the water yet not fear that any slight movement will throw you off like a bucking bronco. Longboard surfing is also the safest way to start your surfing addiction.

Longboards by their description are generally 8-14ft long.

Longboard Surfer - The Duke 1920

The Duke

They can have variations of tail and fin design but most commonly will have a large central single fin and rounded tail. This is the type of board you can hang ten on but also surf on the big waves. Longboards are synonymous with Hawaii. Duke Kahanamoku brought the sport from Hawaii to mainland USA and Australia in 1912 and from there it evolved. As technology and popularity spawned so did board design, size and materials.

The Classic Longboard

These are the very original style boards used in stand up surfing as we know it. They started out 10 – 14 ft long made from solid wooden. Surfing really took off in CAlifornia in the 1920’s particularly in Malibu, hence where the name now comes from. In the 1950’s longboards changed from balsa wood to more lightweight materials.  Polyurethane and fibrelgass came on the scene and changed surf boards forever. Boards became lighter, faster and more manoeuvrable.

Modern Longboards

The modern longboard design has come leagues away from its classic predecessors. Modern boards use firbreglass, polyurethane and now epoxy materials reducing drag coefficients and increasing performance in the water. These boards are typically in the 9 – 10 ft range and are generally the type of board you will find when you get your first surf lesson.

The fin configuration of a modern longboard is still largely influenced by its classic ancestors. A typical large single fin setup giving good control but slow response. With modern innovation and technological advances the thruster setup has taken flight. This three fin setup introduces better turning and thrusting capability over the 1950’s style boards.

Big wave surfboards

Big wave Surfboard

Big wave surf boards, or Gun’s as they are commonly called range from 9 – 12ft. These sleek tear drop shaped boards pierce through the large waves effortlessly. The Gun incorporates shortboard performance features into a longboards structure. The hybrid structure allows better paddling performance to catch the big waves but then shortboard performance and handling to cater while riding it. This is far from a beginners board and surf conditions.

Longboard surfing is like the circle of life. In your infancy as a beginner surfer during your first surf lesson you’ll appreciate every extra foot you can get for your balance, buoyancy and stability. Then as your experience level progresses you’ll work up to shorter faster boards that need the extra paddling power of a sub olympic swimmer.

As the years pass and your pursuit of speed and sharp turns flails you’ll come back to your old friend. Your longboard that you can now ride with finesse and caress your way through the water,  tango down the stringer to get your feet wet.

Your new found appreciation of your longboard will stay with you forever, not to say that you wont go and get a rush of speed on your shortboard every now and then but you will always know that your old friend is not too far away.

Here are some articles that you might enjoy:

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Sep 29, 2009

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Vibram Five Finger for Surfing

Vibram Five Finger for Surfing

Vibram Five Finger have changed the way we’re going to be viewing surfing shoes forever. Gone are the days when you can safely go down to the beach in your  barefeet and expect your feet to stay unharmed in this modern concrete and glass world we live. Flip flops, or thongs as they are called in Australia (not to be mistaken with an article of underwear), just don’t cut it any more when it comes to comfort and walking long distance. Tight shins and painful calf muscles usually go hand in hand with prolonged flip flop use. So what am I talking about that will magically solve this problem. Well a shoe manufacturer, well more accurately a shoe Sole manufacturer ‘Vibram’, came up with the idea that protects your feet both in and out of the water whilst not losing any agility, dexterity, grip nor feel so you can still go surfing, learn or take a surf lesson in them. So what am I saying here?

Five finger what?

You can wear your footwear down to the beach, paddle out and surf for the day, then walk home in them without taking away anything from your surfing experience. Lets face the facts, surfers are inherently lazy when it comes to most thing other than surfing. You’ll never have to worry about flip flops or shoes ever again or where your going to put them when you get in the water. You don’t have to worry about carrying down a second pair of booties when your surfing on reef. And most importantly, one that has got me twice quite badly, cold water.

Feet and cold water

In cold water my feet cramp up and when I transition from laying/paddling to standing position. My feet stayed in the arched position so that when I jumped to my feet I tore the ligaments on the top part of my foot between my toes and ankle. Imagine a ballerina standing on her feet. Now imagine someone with no ballet experience trying to hold their bodies up like that … yes .. OUCH.. 2 trips the doctor and I have learnt my lesson. I always wear footwear when its cold.

So what is Vibram Five Finger?

Vibram Five Finger, is what we’re talking about here is liken to a combination between a pair or toe socks and a pair of shoes. A picture says a thousand words so have a look at it above and it will save me much effort in explaining. With 26 bones, 33 ligaments and 20 muscles your feet are extremely complicated animals. This is why we need to care for them more than we do … no more high heels ladies, they really are not good for you, just ask your chiropractor.

Vibram five fingers brings you the flexibility of a outdoor shoes with the feelings of being barefoot. Five fingers stimulates the muscles in your feet to build strength and lower leg muscles. When translated into surfing terms this means that you will not lose your most important sense whilst surfing. And that is touch. Your contact between board and feet is your best friend.

Well actually more important that your best friend, like your lifeline or last breath. You can feel the surge, the power, the change in angle not to mention the change in weight as you push through your feet to turn and guide the board.

Surfing Safety Equipment

If your serious about your safety, health and love for the sport but don’t want to lose an ounce of feel then this is a must for you. A bare minimum in surf equipment that I believe you need out in the water if your surfing on reef or walking over it to get to that fabulous break. I believe it’s a small price to pay to still enjoy a sport with great benefits and little to no drawbacks. Vibram please send me one pair size 11.

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Aug 13, 2009

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The right wetsuit for you in 2mins flat.

The right wetsuit for you in 2mins flat.

All things are not created equal. This is no different to anything revolving around surfing. Just because two objects, look the same and have the same intended use does mean that they both equal to the task. Likewise with wetsuits and wetsuit design.

Wetsuits come in various shapes, sizes and materials but it doesn’t end there. You have to understand the conditions that your going to be immersing yourself into not to mention how comfortable you body is with colder water. A wise man once told me buy yourself the best wet suit you cant afford.

Womens Wetsuit

Womens Short Length Wetsuit

Geography equals wetsuit type

By understanding our geographic locations and water temperatures we can narrow our wetsuit choices to a handful of designs, manufacturers and styles. From then on in it will come down to the fit. Its all about the fit. I don’t care how great a product is cracked up to be if it doesn’t fit well. Don’t believe me? Try on a pair of your younger brother/sisters shoes and go for 20 minutes jog and tell me that fits not important.

Five minutes of research into your local water temperature and you’ll be able to save hours of driving and shopping. You’ll know what you want before you even leave the house, then its just a case of finding the best. Here I cant help you with that.

Water temperature is key

There are two ways to do this. Go down to your local surf spot and look around to see what other surfers are wearing OR go into a store and ask someone the same question. Second way is to find the water temperature in your local area both summer and winter.

Cold weather surfing conditions

For water temperatures below 10C (50F) I highly recommend a 5 x 3mm wetsuit and some serious determination. The water is very cold, your hands, feet and head will most probably need some

Wetsuit

Full Length Wetsuit

protection from the elements. This I will cover in another article on its own.

Everyone is different and has different tolerances to water temperature. On my first surf lesson I used a borrowed short arm/leg wetsuit that didnt fit properly and boy did I freeze that day. Personally, water temperature below 17C (60F) I use a full 3 x  2  full arm and leg wetsuit with a rash shirt underneath. The rash shirt is there simply for that, to avoid a rash and that extra bit of comfort but that’s a personal thing, What does that mean? It means the chest, torso and groin area has 3mm of wetsuit material thickness while the arms and legs will have 2mm.

Warm weather surfing

For water temperatures between 17C (60F) – 21C(70F)  I use a 2 x 1mm short arm and leg wetsuit with rash shirt. These are for days when the water is too warm for a full blown wetsuit but I still need that little bit extra to keep me in the water longer. Also a must have in windy conditions. When your sitting on your board waiting for the next wave and the wind is howling it seriously chills you down to the bone. The likes of having a cold shower then running in front of a cooling fan for 2 hours… most unpleasant.

Water temperatures over 21C (70F) is a dream come true. I use the bear minimum, rash shirt and board shorts… That’s it.. You don’t need any more. These are your glorious summer days where it’s a pleasure to just sit in the water and be gradually cooled from the blistering summers day heat. On a hot summers day you can actually start to feel nauseas from overheating if your wearing far too much cold weather protection.

So there you have it. Now all you have to do is 2 minutes of research on water temperature in your local area and you will be able to decide which type of wet suit best serves you purpose.  Once you have a thickness type and style (long or short) along with your budget you will find that your selection has been drastically narrowed and all it now comes down to is how big your wallet is and what fits best.

You will find many brands and makes that will cater for your needs. What you will also find is your body shape and size will fit better to certain manufactures, in my case O’Neill wetsuits fit me like a glove. Remember, if it doesn’t fit like a glove then I suggest change your gloves not modify your hands.

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