Feb 9, 2010

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Surf Pavones – If it were any Longer your Gi...

Surf Pavones – If it were any Longer your Girlfriend Would Get Jealous

Surf Pavones – If it was any more remote you’d have to get a GPS to find it.

If you do go and Surf Pavones you wont be disappointed, IF the swell is running. Pavones is one of the premier locations in the world for left hand breaks. When its pumping and the swell is from the South, usually April to November, it’s ‘mucho gusto’.

Surf PavonesSurf Pavones and you wont be disappointed by the quality nor length of the ride during this time, as long as there is swell but we’ll get to that later. And yes its very very hot.

Where do I go to Surf Pavones???

If there was an ass end of the world that was almost too impossible to get to, then this place would be further. Pavones is located way down in the ‘deep-south’ of Costa Rica on the southern side of Gulfo Dulce. The closest town is Golfito which is a six to eight hour drive from San Jose.

Pavoness is 2 hrs further south of Golfito. There is a bus service, car rental and 4WD taxis for approximately $70USD. If you want to get there fast then there is also air transport by Nature Air and Sansa flights from San Jose for about $100USD one way.

This is pristine Costa Rica, Golfito is blisteringly hot, the drive is amazingly beautiful. You will pass teak plantations, lowland rainforest’s and cross dozens of rivers. Its your choice whether you just want to get down there fast or experience more of what Costa Rico has to offer.

Surf Pavones Magic

How Long is Pavones?

Well 3/4 of a mile and between 2 – 3 minutes makes it one of the longest left handers in the world. There are 2-3 sections usually when the swell is down but when it picks up the middle sections are exceptionally fast. This amazing ride will have your legs burning and head thumping from your heart pounding to keep up blood flow to your very very tired muscles.  Did I mention its hot down there.

Surf Pavones on any tide but it will close out less on mid to high tides. On a low tide you can see all the cobble stones which make it more “exciting” getting in and out of the water. The rocks are smooth and are more a trip hazard than a place to cut yourself. However, like all reef breaks i strongly recommend some form of surf bootie or footwear.

Pavones Surf Break Satelite imageAside: I tried barefoot surfing in Tenerife, which has a similar rocky walk out and found that wearing booties/surf shoes made an inmeasureable difference to the bruises on my feet and the speed in which i was able to paddle out.

Ok i’ll stop with the hot comments. How hot is it you say? Hot enough to feel like your breathing mexican chilli’s every time you inhale. You sweat like a contestant on America’s Biggest Loser practicing Ballet. Seriously, the only time your not sweating is when your in the water.

If the swell is up and the surf is rolling in then you’ll be trying to get as many waves as you can before word breaks out how good it is… and trust me news travels fast. So before you know it PAvones is flocking with more people than student night at your local Pizza Hut.

Surf Lesson in Pavones??

There is only one place to go if you want a Surf Lesson and if you find another PLEASE let me know because i think this is it. Its called  Pavones Surf School and Eco Tours,

The waves do cater for everyone from a beginner to extremely advanced surfers. Just depends on the size of the swell on the day. The place is remote and desolate. If the surf isnt up then you’ll be hanging out enjoying the rainforest views and south american culture.

Surf PavonesSo why isnt everyone going to Pavones??

Well because its about as reliable for surf as a teenager on crack. You can get weeks of pancake flat water without end in sight. The direction of the break isnt ideal for swells most year round and you really need perfect conditions to get any sort of rideable wave.

When the swell isnt huge or ideal you can still Surf Pavones but it’s broken down into several sections, so in theory its more like 3-4 smaller breaks rather than one monster left hander.

Accomodation at Pavones is not the Hilton

In Pavones dont expect a five star hotel to retreat back to. Actually, dont expect much at all. There are only a handful of places to stay that are all very modest. Most accomodation is like a B & B (Bed and Breakfast), family run and aimed at modest living.

  • Esquina Del Mar: Closest to the break, has rooms upstairs with shared shower and toilet. Gets a bit noisy on the weekends with the party goers, if you cant beat ‘em join em. $10-$20 per person per night
  • Cabinas Muchos Olas: Has a few rooms located above the Cantina albeit a bit loud. $15-25.
  • Cabinas Las Ponderosa: As upmarket as you can get in this place. Right by the soccer field $20-$50

Places to Eat

Pavones is not a gastronome’s delight. Dont expect your Cordon Bleau or stuffed lobster out there. For a cheap and chearful meal you cant go past the Esquina del Mar cantina right at the point OR if you have to go really low budget there is a mini-mercado just east. (Mini-mart).

Technorati Tags: Surf Lesson, surf pavones, Surf Pictures, surf vacation

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Jan 9, 2010

Posted by admin | 24 comments

Surf Chicama – The Longest Wave in the World

Surf Chicama – The Longest Wave in the World

If someone told me to go and Surf Chicama I would have to ask where the hell is that? I’d never heard of it and I am imagining that neither have you up until now. After about 2 minutes research I was awestruck at the barreling series of left hand waves that I am accustomed to seeing in Indonesia or Hawaii. In case your wondering, Chicama is located in the South American country of Peru and is 560km north of its capital Lima.

Chicama Surf

Reasons to Surf Chicama?

Why am I telling you this??

We are so used to seeing endless pictures and reports from the ASP world tour on places such as North Shore Hawaii, Biarritz France, Indonesia and Australia that we forget that there are countless other less well known places that have almost equally as good surf but are most likely off the beaten track and not as easily accessible.

The Advantages of Surfing Chicama:

  • Empty Waves
  • Excellent Weather
  • Extremely Long Rides ( 2- 4minutes)

The Disadvantages of Surfing Chicama:

  • Only Left Hand Waves
  • Extremely Long Walk to Start point (up to 20 minutes)

Surfing Chicama offers a wide selection and range of waves for a wide range of skills. You can get your first surf lesson here or find a barreling haven over reef. Chicama has it all.

How Good is Surfing Chicama Really??

Google Earth Maps shows that the distance between the Cape to the Pier is approximately 2.61 km. There are 4-5 sections during this ride. If the surf is large enough, between 6 -8 ft, there will be enough volume of water to transition between the sections giving the ultimate 2-4 minute left hand ride. The downside is the 20 minute walk back to the cape but its a small price to pay for the longest ride of your life.

Chicama can cater for all sized and shaped surf boards ranging from short to long. In smaller conditions the thicker and more buoyant the board the greater the chance of transitioning between the sections.

Chicama Surf Break

Plenty of Chicama Waves for Everyone

The million dollar question your waiting for is, how many thousand people are all going to be running over each other to get onto the same wave?? We if I said 20 to 30 … people … along the whole stretch of coastline I would not be joking.

Chicama could cater for 100 plus but on your average day you will have 5 people surfing, on 5 separate waves. 5 people lining up and about 12-15 people walking back to the line up. No need to drop in or cut off anybody here and it is not taken lightly either.

“My motto is Courtesy is king whenever I surf in other countries or locations”.

Chicama Surf Break

Local Chicama Surfing Contacts

If your starting out or need a surf lesson then here’s a place I’ve found helpful and caters for all levels of experience:

However, if you do want to go all out and splurge on a give star surfing extravaganza then this is the place for you:

If you have been to Chicama lately I’d love to hear your experiences below. Surf Chicama and tell us all about it. I do not edit or change comments so if you have something to say then lets hear it.

Images Courtesy of Global Surfers.

Technorati Tags: surf chicama, Surf Lesson, Surf Pictures, surf vacation

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Nov 21, 2009

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Surf Lesson in Tenerife – A Great Surf Vacat...

Surf Lesson in Tenerife – A Great Surf Vacation

Surf Lesson Tenerife

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A Surf Lesson on reef doesn’t sound appealing except when the water is of tropical proportions and there is almost no offshore winds. Couple this with gentle rolling breaks and you have a fantastic combination in which to learn on.

Having said this its not for the feint hearted.

Surf Lesson on Reef not for the Feint Hearted

You have to be committed. The entry and exit of the water is the most dangerous with slippery uneven rocks to walk over, not to mention balance and carry your longboard surfboard through all this.

I traveled all the way around the island of Tenerife for good surf conditions for both a surf lesson and larger waves. The early November conditions brought with them a NE/NW swell which meant that the best conditions were in the SW of the island, namely Playa de Las Americas.

Surf Lesson at Playa de Las Americas

The Surf Lessons are taken usually in the wash at Las Americas. You can get surf lessons from half a dozen places in the town and even from the beach kiosk, they also do a pretty mean Mohito but i’ll save that story for another day.

Wherever you do decide to go you can expect to have wetsuit, surf shoes, a rash shirt and Longboard surfboard included in the price. To be honest, in November, the water is so warm that you really don’t need anything else other than your shoes so you don’t slice up your feet.

Hiring Surf Equipment

Many places offer free surf lessons as long as you hire the equipment from them. Longboard surf hire (with everything above included) is approximately 15 – 20 Euro per day and this is reduced the longer you hire.

I hired for 3 days and it cost me 12 Euro per day.

For the best surf lesson experience i thoroughly recommend you go and speak to one of the surf shops and ask them how the swell is and what the conditions are like for a surf lesson. If the weather is not good they will tell you and usually give you a good estimate of how many days until the conditions improve.

You cant beat local knowledge so don’t be afraid to ask for advice.

El Medano not for Longboard Surfing

Of note, not every person on the island can distinguish good surf lesson conditions and good windsurfing conditions. The reason i mention this is that some will say to head to El Medano for great surf conditions but the only thing you’ll find there 99% of the time is 20-30kt offshore winds and dozens of kite and wind surfers. I’ll save you the drive and time right now.

Technorati Tags: longboard surf, Surf Lesson, surf vacation

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Oct 23, 2009

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Surf Spots: Jeffreys bay for your first surf lesso...

Surf Spots: Jeffreys bay for your first surf lesson?

Surf vacation at Jeffreys Bay

Surf Vacation at Jeffreys Bay

Your imaging your first surf lesson is pristine water with small waves and wash that lap at your knees. You gently mount your board and with a quick paddle are up and away on your first wave. You’ve practiced your stand up technique a hundred times on the beach so this will be no problem. The muscle memory kicks in and Whala you’ve done it… Your catching your first wave.

So why am I telling you this AND including Jeffreys bay in the same breath?

The world knows Jeffreys bay, or J Bay because of its series of barrelling right handers from the point of Supertubes. J Bay is on the ASP tour, the J Bay Billabong PRO. The likes of Kelly Slater, Andy Irons and this years 2009 winner Joel Parkinson are regulars.

So why am I still talking about surf lessons? Have I gone completely mad or am I the type of guys that enjoys watching people get beaten within an inch of their life on the rocks learning to surf.

The last time I checked I wasn’t crazy, just don’t ask my wife.

Jefferys Bay Secrets

Unknown to most surfing enthusiast who go to watch the Billabong Pro is J Bay’s sand bottomed sheltered beaches that are ideal to learn to surf on. I’m not saying that you have to specifically head to South Africa just for a surf lesson but if your heading over to watch the Billabong Pro then why not check out a lesson or two while your down there. Many of the local surf schools have packages varying from a single lesson to week long courses.

Surf Lesson Accommodation

Surf Lesson Accommodation

Your closest majot airport is Port Elizabeth. From there your within a short drive to most lodges and surfing beaches. The majority of courses can include accommodation, meals, activities and all equipment hire.

J Bay as I have already mentioned has more than one surf break or beach to surf at. In fact that bay itself has eight.

J Bay swell size and water temp

Jeffreys Bay Water Temp & Swell Size

Jeffreys Bay Surf breaks

1. Supertubes – Only suitable for very experienced surfers. Waves are very fast, powerful and can be in excess of 10-12 feet when the swell is up. In the tube is the name of the game here.

2. Tubes – this is a short, perfect and hollow wave. You’ll have to master this before you attempt Supertubes

3. Magna Tubes – A well kept secret. Almost devoid of surfers so you’ll have the waves to yourself. A powerful and well shaped wave, as good as anywhere else.

4. Kitchen Window – A peak that breaks both left and right. The perfect place to learn how to ride waves and ideal for your first surf lesson. This is near Main Beach Island accommodation.

5. Boneyards – You cant miss it. This is right next to Supertubes but with only one or two surfers out there. This is a locals only break and they take it very seriously. You have been warned.

6. Salad Bowl – Suitable for experienced surfers only as the water is shallow and the waves are short and hollow.

7. Point – the waves here tend to be smaller then Boneyard & Supertubes but are AWESOME. Plenty of sections for cutbacks and anything else you could possibly want to do on a wave. The main difference here is that you’ll have a much longer ride.

8. Albatross – in the same class as the Point but very few surfers.

Here are a few more articles that you may enjoy:

  • Augie Globalog » Going Broke…30 cents at a time – Taking full advantage of our increasingly hotter temperatures we have been fully packing our weekends with trips to Sydney’s local beaches, the petting zoo, aquarium and the Blue Mountains. simon3 One of my favorite beaches here in …
  • Augie Globalog » Surf’s Up Dude! – G’Day Mates! Our newest adventure here in the Land Down Under was Mojo Surf Camp. The surf camp was a six hour bus ride to Crescent Head Beach. It was a unique experience because the two day camp allowed us 15 hours of surfing on a …

Technorati Tags: Surf Lesson, Surf Pictures, surf vacation

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Oct 22, 2009

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Surf Spots: Cornwall, the mecca of British surfing...

Surf Spots: Cornwall, the mecca of British surfing?

Surf Vacation at Cornwall

Surf Vacation at Cornwall

This morning I came accross and article that was very apt for me right about now in regards to a surf spot that I never really heard of Cornwall? I am leaving Australia on an extended, well there is no deadline to return, holiday/adventure through UK and Europe. I am extremely fortunate that I currently live extremely close to the beach so the choice of driving or walking to my favourite surf spot often comes to mind when I decide to hit the waves… and the winning choice usually depends on how lazy I feel.

The one thing that I am going to miss the most is the ability to have full access to my surfing within, at most, a 15minute drive to all my favourite surf spots. My starting location will be London, UK. I have already been warned that the closest to surfing I will get there is if the street ices over and I fall on my ass. Nonetheless I want to start my UK/European adventure in the big smoke.

I have been researching surf spots in the UK initially and came accross an article from Extreme Horizons Blog about the annual surfing pilgrimage to Cornwall.

The Cornwall Surfing Crush

Cornwall isn’t your Jeffreys Bay but is apparently one of the better surf locations in the UK which picks up considerable swell on both coasts. The beach at Cornwall likened to an overcrowded Tokyo subway at rush hour.. But yet the Brits still make their way down in the masses. There can be up to twenty surf school each with twenty plus students taking their first surf lesson vying for a piece of the action, and I haven’t even started to talk about the sub arctic water temperatures. You have to be half seal or have a very very good wetsuit to even get your toes in.

There are also the myriad of  beginner surfers whose first experience is likely to be that of being run over by a surfer after they unknowingly drop in on them. The prevailing north coast winds are westerly which means alot of offshore. You do get the odd day when the conditions are perfect with  onshore winds and great swell. This culminates in a few reef breaks, the odd point break plus some barrelling sandbars.

Surf Pilgrimage to Cornwall

I know I havent painted a fantastic picture of the place but its more than just a surf location. Its a pilgrimage. When you get back its not so much about the location but about the journey. Its the ability to recap the crowds, the traffic jams, the 12 year old on a softboard that you ran over while catching your first barrel. Its these memories that will last you the whole winter of dinner time discussions.

There still are uncrowded locations to surf at although you will have to search and get off the beaten track to find. There is much to do in the form of nightlife if your under 25 at Newquay and the water can be a beautiful green crystal colour.

Noone questions religious travels abroad to walk along some sandy tracks and hang out with thousands of other people in the overwroded blistering heat and neither should anyone judge yours if your that way inclined.

I’ll see you there.

Here is an article that you might enjoy:

  • Surf and Fun in El Salvador – I’ve been back from my trip to El Salvador for a week and I am only starting to feel better. I had a great time there but I have felt awful for the last few days. My friends and I spent 7 days at Las Flores Surf Club, a 4 star surf resort located in El Cuco, a tiny village on the East side (note they call it East but if you look at a map, it’s actually South ).

Technorati Tags: Surf Lesson, Surf Pictures, surf vacation

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5 Ways to Make Your First Surf Lesson a Success