Oct 22, 2009

Posted by admin in Longboard Surf, Surf Lesson | 2 comments

Longboard Surfing and its evolution

Longboard surfing is probably the easiest and most fun way to get into surfing. Longboard surf is a slowed down more graceful version of surfing with soul. You can feel the power of the water yet not fear that any slight movement will throw you off like a bucking bronco. Longboard surfing is also the safest way to start your surfing addiction.

Longboards by their description are generally 8-14ft long.

Longboard Surfer - The Duke 1920

The Duke

They can have variations of tail and fin design but most commonly will have a large central single fin and rounded tail. This is the type of board you can hang ten on but also surf on the big waves. Longboards are synonymous with Hawaii. Duke Kahanamoku brought the sport from Hawaii to mainland USA and Australia in 1912 and from there it evolved. As technology and popularity spawned so did board design, size and materials.

The Classic Longboard

These are the very original style boards used in stand up surfing as we know it. They started out 10 – 14 ft long made from solid wooden. Surfing really took off in CAlifornia in the 1920’s particularly in Malibu, hence where the name now comes from. In the 1950’s longboards changed from balsa wood to more lightweight materials.  Polyurethane and fibrelgass came on the scene and changed surf boards forever. Boards became lighter, faster and more manoeuvrable.

Modern Longboards

The modern longboard design has come leagues away from its classic predecessors. Modern boards use firbreglass, polyurethane and now epoxy materials reducing drag coefficients and increasing performance in the water. These boards are typically in the 9 – 10 ft range and are generally the type of board you will find when you get your first surf lesson.

The fin configuration of a modern longboard is still largely influenced by its classic ancestors. A typical large single fin setup giving good control but slow response. With modern innovation and technological advances the thruster setup has taken flight. This three fin setup introduces better turning and thrusting capability over the 1950’s style boards.

Big wave surfboards

Big wave Surfboard

Big wave surf boards, or Gun’s as they are commonly called range from 9 – 12ft. These sleek tear drop shaped boards pierce through the large waves effortlessly. The Gun incorporates shortboard performance features into a longboards structure. The hybrid structure allows better paddling performance to catch the big waves but then shortboard performance and handling to cater while riding it. This is far from a beginners board and surf conditions.

Longboard surfing is like the circle of life. In your infancy as a beginner surfer during your first surf lesson you’ll appreciate every extra foot you can get for your balance, buoyancy and stability. Then as your experience level progresses you’ll work up to shorter faster boards that need the extra paddling power of a sub olympic swimmer.

As the years pass and your pursuit of speed and sharp turns flails you’ll come back to your old friend. Your longboard that you can now ride with finesse and caress your way through the water,  tango down the stringer to get your feet wet.

Your new found appreciation of your longboard will stay with you forever, not to say that you wont go and get a rush of speed on your shortboard every now and then but you will always know that your old friend is not too far away.

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  1. Hi! I was surfing and found your blog post… nice! I love your blog. :) Cheers! Sandra. R.

  2. admin says:

    Your Welcome Sandra.

    If you have any surfing questions or problems just drop me a line and i’ll do my best to try and explain as best I can.

    Regards
    Dejvi (Dave)

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